My Day With A Wadi Rum Bedouin

‘Now what happens?' I ask.

‘We will kill you.'

‘Oh,' I reply, looking at his smiling face and teasing eyes.

I think he is joking. I hope he is joking.

If you were actually going to kill someone would you warn them first? My bags are in the back of his boot and my instinct is telling me to trust this Bedouin man. He scoops up the bottom of his brown dress and gets into the jeep.

I follow and he starts the engine.What follows is one of the best days of my trip.

The red desert

Across a red milky desert, we cruise in a 4×4, leaving a trail of red dust in our path. This place is amazing and Wadi Rum quickly becomes my favourite place on earth. This red desert that lies in the south of Amman is the perfect setting for Lawrence of Arabia. It's vast, remote and has the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen.

The setting for Lawrence of Arabia


We stop at a Bedouin camp for tea, gazing out at the sand dunes. Then he takes me to one of his many ├žousins' camps (there are 2000 people in his family!) I want to sleep under the stars but it will be cloudy tonight, I am told.

Bedouin camp nestled in the rocky landscape

I am invited into a cave by a greasy Bedouin who looks more like a Greek kebab owner than a nomad. I decline. I have been warned about the so called ‘hospitality' of Bedouin men to western women.

Instead, I sleep in a tent made of goat hair and listen to the eerie silence of the desert. Safe that I will not be wanted for a visa out of this amazing place.

I love the desert…

Home for the night

Moon walking down one of the many dunes

It's so stunning, I just have to add another picture…

This experience was through Bedouins of Wadi Rum. 

I travelled to Jordan as a solo. If you need help planning your trip there's lots of advice on the Solo Travel in Jordan guide. 

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